Observing Senegal's Election

After a tumultuous seven-week political crisis where Senegal's elections were postponed, debated, and rescheduled 3 times, voters went to the polls on March 24 to elect Senegal's next president.  Anxious for the conclusion of this unprecedented turn of events, analysts were watching closely to see if democracy would win the day.  I had a front row seat as an accredited election observer. 

Voters line up outside a polling station

At each polling station I visited, there were 4 poll workers plus an official from the national voting agency as well as representatives from the candidates' political parties.  This presidential election had 19 candidates, but the polling stations I observed only had 3-5 reps from the most prominent parties.  That adds up to a minimum of 7 people in the room before counting any voters (or my observation team.)

My observation team with the mayor

Much of the voting process was on display for this audience.  As each voter entered, they handed their ID to the poll worker holding the official registration list.  The worker read the name out loud for the others in the room to confirm against their copy of the registration list.  The voter than proceeded to a table with 19 paper ballots laid out, a separate one for each candidate.  In full view of the room, voters were instructed to pick up between 5-19 candidate ballots to take with them into the secret ballot booth.

An enthusiastic voter submits his ballot

In the ballot booth, which was usually a simple black curtain hung in the corner, the voter finally had privacy to seal their chosen candidate's ballot in a voting envelope and throw the remaining ballots in the trash can.  After emerging from behind the curtain, the voter placed the envelope into the ballot box before signing the voting registry and dipping their finger in indelible ink.

A voter signs the registry

For an American, this sounds like a lot of steps in front of a lot of people.  But the voters I observed were not fazed.  They calmly executed their civic duty, with turnout hovering around 60%.  After weeks of legitimate hand-wringing and lamentations that democracy was dying in Senegal, voters showed that they indeed had the power to revive their democracy and would not shirk from that duty.  Americans, kindly take note, come November.

Future voters enjoying election day 

Car Rapide Tour

In Dakar, the car rapide used to be a predominate mode of public transportation.  These brightly-painted minibuses are now being replaced by more modern buses.  But you can still hail them around town or join a car rapide sightseeing tour.  I chose the latter.

Just hanging off the back of the car rapide!

The first stop on our tour was to see traditional weaving.  I watched in admiration as a father-son team worked in perfect silent and in perfect rhythm to create a table runner at a roadside loom.  And I came home with a colorful new table runner of my own.

Weaving duo

Further along on the tour, we stopped at a religious school where the students proudly recited the alphabet in Arabic and counted in Wolof (Senegal's dominant local language).  Sadly, the curriculum did not include French or English, so our communication was limited to smiles and handshakes.

Look at that grin!

Fatigued by our literacy lesson, we re-fortified ourselves with a tea break before reaching our last stop, the Grand Mosque.  We timed our visit perfectly because we had just enough time to view the stunning chandeliers and look up at the minarets from the inner courtyard before the call to prayer sounded and we needed to vacate.

Grand Mosque

Seeing Dakar from the open windows of a car rapide was an entertaining, if not comfortable, experience.  I'll continue to rely on my own car for my regular transportation needs.  But I've now caught some of the fondness the city has for these colorful vehicles. 

Did you see that?

Expectations of Dakar

As I flew across the Atlantic from Washington, DC to Dakar, Senegal, I jotted down my thoughts on what might be awaiting me over the next three years:  

1. In many ways, I’m struggling to know what to expect.  Dakar has been called the “Paris of West Africa,” yet many argue that title is overblown.  Senegal is very much a developing country.  Therefore keeping expectations low and being pleasantly surprised seems like the best approach.
2. I may have to guard against comparing Senegal to my first Foreign Service experience in Kenya in East Africa.
3. For the first time in my foreign service career, I will be able to enjoy local peanut butter.
4. Even though I’ll be living in Africa, I’ll be breaking out pants and light sweaters during Senegal’s winter season.
5. Eventually, I will feel confident in saying I’m fluent in French.
6. Taking full advantage of tailors, I will acquire a dozen new outfits in fabulous African patterns.
7. I will confront America’s role in the slave trade from an entirely new perspective.
8. I expect to witness a tolerant form of Islam, with unique Senegalese influence.
9. Hopefully, I will add some new activity to my wheelhouse.  Maybe surfing or sand volleyball, due to Dakar’s coastal location?

One thing's for sure:  I'm excited to move overseas and chronicle my adventures in this blog! 

Dakar's Monument de la Renaissance